On Saturday 16th September Oxford Fashion Studio launched 25 collections by designers from 14 countries around the world strengthening London’s leading position as the best place in the world for design talent. The collections featured at the London Fashion Week showcased wearable art jackets with artisan-crafted fibre panels by SuKaz, equestrian empowerment by all female team NH ALRabiah from Kuwait and indigenous representation by OOROME from Mexico. BERTH from Hong Kong returned to Devonshire Square taking her trademark style to a new level of finish. Vino Supraja from India channelled folk art from Therukoothu with a show featuring a performance by Vaanmadhi Jagan.
Body positive brands Renee Cafaro Atelier and Renee’Larouge brought elegance and glamour for all sizes. Mythology, folklore, storytelling and escapism permeated the mood of the season as seen through collections by Why Mary, Narmin Tello, RADADA and AngElixs Designs.
Accessories were well represented including colourful footwear by Sarah Maier, Norwegian outerwear by Vinter and silicone on spectacular outfits by Viktoria Marchev. Collections with pop colours continued with Dijo Clothing and Francini_K but in contrast Dea the Label and Rosie Billington channelled darker tones with exquisite finishing. Myriam de Moreno launched beautiful gowns while Xantha brought extraordinary structure and Nuno Abelho collection showed off exceptional fabrics cut to perfection.
AnnaFrancesca Revolution from Panama headlined the day of shows with a surreal spectacle that saw models emerging and coming to life on the runway. It was a show unlike any that had taken place at Devonshire Square before, transporting guests into another world.
“The creativity and dynamism demonstrated by the designers on the Emerge schedule this season, from 14 countries around the world, underlines London’s place as the best place in the world for emerging brands.” says Oxford Fashion Studio Runway Director, Tiffany Saunders.
- Ally Brenner Designs
Fierce Opulence | Australia
Ally Brenner Designs (ABD) is an Australian womenswear designer currently trading in Canberra ACT, Australia. The label launched the Fierce Opulence collection in London, a couture collection that features ten full body looks that were meticulously designed and hand crafted in ACT Australia. Each is one-of-a-kind and designed for the wearer to feel empowered, confident, and strong. The key embellishments in this collection have been applied through beading and embroidery to create an opulent feminine feel.
- Myriam de Moreno
Woman of Today | Colombia
Myriam De Moreno is a Colombian brand that specialises in haute couture gowns for weddings and galas. Each gown is crafted with quality fabrics embracing the essence of luxury and sophistication. The Woman of Today collection pays homage to the modern woman with a special tribute to the vibrant spirit of Colombia. Drawing inspiration from the country’s rich culture and beautiful landscapes, each garment features meticulous embroidery representing Colombia’s diverse natural world.
- Narmin Tello
Garden of Eden | Australia
Narmin Tello specialises in cocktail wear, evening wear and bridal gowns. The designer’s gowns feature sheer transparent lace beaded fabrics that are applied in applique pieces and hand sewn. The brand creates limited edition pieces inspired by nature and story timelines. Narmin comes from a family background of sewers who create custom made gowns. The Garden of Eden collection is inspired by the beginning of time, capturing nature, love and harmony. Heaven on earth before Eve and Adam fell from the grace of God, by eating the forbidden apple. With the final design Eve is the bride that comes back to light from falling.
- AngElixs Designs
Bàthory | USA
Angie Smith founded AngElixs Designs in 2014. Angie’s distinctive style is a captivating blend of macabre, gothic and fairytale elements. Her designs are a testament to the power of storytelling through fashion. The Báthory collection is inspired by the notorious Hungarian countess, Elizabeth Báthory, historically known as the Countess of Blood. This collection invites you to contemplate the line between innocence and evil, history and legend, and the haunting allure of the macabre.
- Onyx vs. Phoenix
Emerge | USA
Onyx vs Phoenix represents designer Alisha Needham’s unbalanced yin and yang. Onyx reflects the introverted and closed side whereas Phoenix represents the designer’s extroverted and relaxed side. Alisha’s designs feature hard and soft fabrics and accents, structured and organic lines, delicate and strong silhouettes. The Emerge collection highlights how Alisha’s designs have evolved during her five year hiatus from fashion.
Seven | USA
Xantha creates one of a kind garments and accessories by reconstructing and repurposing old clothes. The brand has been recognised for having sustainability at its core, picking up a number of sustainability awards. The Seven collection demonstrates the brand’s range from clothing to accessories featuring reconstructed denim, avantgarde creations and accessories. The number seven represents completion.
- Rosie Billington
Nera | UK
Rosie Billington is a British women’s fashion designer and hair and beauty salon owner. The label launched at London Fashion Week in 2016 with Oxford Fashion Studio and was subsequently recognised by the Midlands Fashion Awards. Today the designs are worn by British actresses, reality stars and influencers.
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In 2021 Oxford Fashion Studio launched Emerge, a platform specifically designed for smaller teams to launch during fashion week: industry-connected, resource-friendly and exceptional production quality. For SS24 Emerge is supporting 25 brands from 14 countries including Latvia, Panama, India, Kuwait, Mexico, Norway, Luxembourg, Colombia, Portugal, Australia, Hong Kong, Canada, the UK and the USA. All 25 brands launched their collections at Devonshire Square on Saturday 16th September 2023 during London Fashion Week. “This is my first time showing at any fashion week. They’ve always been right there to be on hand, they’re so kind and caring. They’re such a great team. I have barely had to lift a finger, which is really nice. It’s great to have because you are only as good as the team around you.” – Kelsey Saitch, Designer for Kelse, London