On Saturday 16th September Oxford Fashion Studio launched 25 collections by designers from 14 countries around the world strengthening London’s leading position as the best place in the world for design talent. The collections featured at the London Fashion Week showcased wearable art jackets with artisan-crafted fibre panels by SuKaz, equestrian empowerment by all female team NH ALRabiah from Kuwait and indigenous representation by OOROME from Mexico. BERTH from Hong Kong returned to Devonshire Square taking her trademark style to a new level of finish. Vino Supraja from India channelled folk art from Therukoothu with a show featuring a performance by Vaanmadhi Jagan.
Body positive brands Renee Cafaro Atelier and Renee’Larouge brought elegance and glamour for all sizes. Mythology, folklore, storytelling and escapism permeated the mood of the season as seen through collections by Why Mary, Narmin Tello, RADADA and AngElixs Designs.
Accessories were well represented including colourful footwear by Sarah Maier, Norwegian outerwear by Vinter and silicone on spectacular outfits by Viktoria Marchev. Collections with pop colours continued with Dijo Clothing and Francini_K but in contrast Dea the Label and Rosie Billington channelled darker tones with exquisite finishing. Myriam de Moreno launched beautiful gowns while Xantha brought extraordinary structure and the Nuno Abelho collection showed off exceptional fabrics cut to perfection.
AnnaFrancesca Revolution from Panama headlined the day of shows with a surreal spectacle that saw models emerging and coming to life on the runway. It was a show unlike any that had taken place at Devonshire Square before, transporting guests into another world.
“The creativity and dynamism demonstrated by the designers on the Emerge schedule this season, from 14 countries around the world, underlines London’s place as the best place in the world for emerging brands.” says Oxford Fashion Studio Runway Director, Tiffany Saunders.
Transitions | USA
Each SuKaz jacket, created by Designer Susan Hollingsworth, is the product of 20 years living in international locales. A labour of love between designer, textile artisan, and seamstress; the wearable art pieces serve as tangible reminders of cultural craft passed down through generations. The Transitions collection reflects a juxtaposition of structure and ease taking inspiration from traditional menswear. The collection includes Susan’s modern interpretation of the duster coat and asymmetrical details across capes and jackets. Featuring rich dark fabrications and unique artisan-crafted fibre art panels making this collection a true labour of love by its creator.
Infinity – The Signature Collection | Luxembourg
Francini_K is a couture brand launched by Francine Keiser in April 2022 in Luxembourg. Inspired by the sixties, Francine’s first collection is composed of glamorous evening dresses that combine classic fabrics and technical materials. The label’s looks are structured, short, colourful, uplifting and sensual. Francine creates fashion for active women who, so she states, “should not have to choose between comfort and elegance”.
- NH ALRabiah
Saddle | Kuwait
NH AlRabiah is a Kuwaiti label featuring an all female team founded by two sisters, Nora and Haya AlRabiah. The team is driven by artistry and individuality with a fervent commitment to diversity, equality and empowering women. The Saddle collection takes inspiration from the equestrian tradition and the courage it radiates. The collection features a colour pallet of earthy brown, navy blue, a touch of tonal grey and most importantly red. “Saddle up ladies” – Nora AlRabiah.
- Why Mary
Virtues of Venice | Australia
Why Mary is a womenswear label founded by Janette Laver on the Gold Coast in Australia known for its artistic fusion of classic femininity, creative fabric selection with timeless style. Signature designs include minimal silhouettes complimenting bold prints. Virtues of Venice draws upon the mythological goddess Venus, known as Aphrodite in ancient Greek mythology. The collection aims to capture the dichotomy of her sensuality and revered power featuring dramatic cowl necklines in draping fabrics complemented by more structured styles.
- Nuno Abelho
Raíz | Portugal
Nuno Abelho founded his women and menswear brand in Portugal in 2008. Raíz, meaning Root, is a collection that builds upon the brand’s foundations. Cuts and silhouettes that predominate in past collections were updated to cleaner and more refined styles. Strong colours, silk jacquards and classic silhouettes with a romantic appeal define the mood for the Spring Summer 2024 season.
- AnnaFrancesca Revolution
Humanitritos | Panama
AnnaFrancesca sculpts the body to create art. Every piece is unique, one of a kind and beaded by hand with some pieces taking over 2,000 hours. The team knows that all bodies are beautiful. The Humanitritos collection invites you to open your mind and step into a new world. Welcome to a debutante ball of a different kind where you will be introduced to the creatures from Meyugoridate, the most wonderful place to ever exist. Enjoy the light they spread. Prepare to be taken on a journey of pure imagination. The future starts now with the arrival of the Humanitritos.
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In 2021 Oxford Fashion Studio launched Emerge, a platform specifically designed for smaller teams to launch during fashion week: industry-connected, resource-friendly and exceptional production quality. For SS24 Emerge is supporting 25 brands from 14 countries including Latvia, Panama, India, Kuwait, Mexico, Norway, Luxembourg, Colombia, Portugal, Australia, Hong Kong, Canada, the UK and the USA. All 25 brands launched their collections at Devonshire Square on Saturday 16th September 2023 during London Fashion Week. “This is my first time showing at any fashion week. They’ve always been right there to be on hand, they’re so kind and caring. They’re such a great team. I have barely had to lift a finger, which is really nice. It’s great to have because you are only as good as the team around you.” – Kelsey Saitch, Designer for Kelse, London